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| Trapping, Varmint, And Small Game Hunting Receive the tricks of the trade from experienced trapping, varmint and small game hunters in this forum. |
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| Trap preparation for new traps: First off loosen the bolt than holds the pan on the trap til in falls on its own by barely shaking the trap then set all the traps and see that the pan sits level if not bend the thing where the dog attaches with pliers til it does sit level. Then take the traps inside run them through the dishwasher with the same amount of dishwasher soap you use for really dirty dishes be sure to keep the chains up out of any moving parts... Then dip them in a mixture of 8oz. white vinegar to 1 1/2 gal. water (redip and turn traps every hour or so)... lay them out in the grass and 7 hours later they have a light coat of rust ready to be dyed... dye them in logwood trap dye wax them and ready for the trap line... I dye them a dozen at a time by boiling them in logwood dye over a turkey fryer burner. I use one 1lb. bag of dye to 3 1/2-4 gal. of water this will do 4-5 dozen traps before you'd want to add another bag of dye. Boil them about 10-15min. on a medium boil. Then hang them to dry. I heat the wax to 225* in a large stockpot or electric cook pot, it takes only enough wax to cover each trap. Heat it til it is completely melted and starting to smoke (225*) (turn the burner down so it doesn't burst into flames and keep the lid handy if it did), on the same burner. Be sure the traps are completely dry or the wax will boil violently! then I dip each trap in the wax one at a time.(I use a stiff piece of #9 wire with a hook on the end to dip the traps in the wax.) I leave it in the wax until the "sizzling" stops (about 30 sec. - 1 min., the trap needs to be heated to the same temp. as the wax for it to coat correctly not too thick) Then I pull the trap out, shake off the excess wax and hang it to dry. As soon as it is cool it can be set. BE EXTREMELY CAREFUL WHEN USING THE WAX IT IS FLAMMABLE IF YOU ARE A MINOR GET AN ADULT TO SUPERVISE!!! The dye and wax is available through most any trapping supply places. For used traps take them to the car wash and power wash off all the dirt and loose rust then skip the dishwasher and vinegar. .............................. Snare Prep I like the Formula 1 it is fast and easy when you have a bunch of snares to do. I also like painting them with a LIGHT coat of camo paint. If you coil them together and spray each side with different colors of camo, when you un-coil them they blend in so well I can hardly find them. But the spray paint is too expensive when you have 1000 snares to do so I use the F1. I mix the F1 like the can says (or thinner), uncoil my snares and dip them 1 dozen at a time and drop them on cardboard to dry for an hour or so. They are then done. Just one dip is all you want to keep from impeding the locks performance. I used to do the baking soda thing but I never liked the chalky feel or the resulting look of the snares. And I have learned this... You don't ever want to boil all the oil off your snares. I know that's controversial, but this is a learning post so here's why... If you boil off all the oil it removes the oils from the center strands of the cable, without this oil, the first time the snares see any moisture or high humidity the cable begins to corrode/rust from the inside, out. This is often very gradual, and if your snares are used and connect the first year-two after you boil them it will not be so big a deal... HOWEVER after a couple years in Iowa's climate the cable becomes stiffer and weaker. I've had snares get so bad that if you'd bend a kink in the cable by hand, the strands actually break (not all them but some). So I say if you have a few to do, use camo spray paint and if you have a bunch to do use the F1. Furthermore- I venture to guess the baking soda guys have never tried the F1 or they would switch if for no other reason than the speed and way better camo look. I use the brown F1. Here there are all done... ![]() Then time for the Formula 1, before.... ![]() After... ![]() All done.... ![]() Closer up.... ![]() I really like that F1 for fast snare prep! Enjoy! ................................... F1 for traps and bodygrippers I have just started using the F1 on my footholds for beaver. I think I'm going to really like it. I may use it on all my traps in the future. You mix it per the directions a pint goes along ways and it will keep for a long time if you cover it and protect it from freezing. Simply wash the traps free of factory oils, (I use the dishwasher on the same cycle and same soap as real dirty pots and pans, I also give it a little squirt of Dawn dish soap as well) then dip them in the mix, hang to dry (about an hour with a fan on them) repeat up to as many times as you'd like til they look how you want them. Here they are after one coat... ![]() I decided on 4 coats total... ![]() A good friend of mine has been using it and liking the results on his bodygrippers as well... ![]() That is the color you get with the "brown" F1 it's the only color I've used. It looks like an OD green to me. ~ADC~ |
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| Thanks ADC ... Tom
__________________ the only thing necessary for the triumph of evil, is that good men do nothing.... Hunting Nebraska Forums http://www.nebraskafurharvesters.com/ |
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| hi, I am trying to find out what is formula 1 that you use for your snares. I am trying to do my snare but undeced how i am going to do them. Warren |
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| You can also put your snares in a pot of water mixed with baking soda, this will take the glare off of the snares. Tom
__________________ the only thing necessary for the triumph of evil, is that good men do nothing.... Hunting Nebraska Forums http://www.nebraskafurharvesters.com/ |
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| Quote:
F & T Fur Harvester's Trading Post - Formula One Trap Kote Try that link. ~ADC~ |
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