Winterizing your boat

[whisker]

Here's a helpful list to use for winterizing your boat...
It's time to store your boat for the
winter
and begin thinking about next years fishing. Boats seem to work
better
when they're used often. When equipment sits, moisture builds and
eats away at
electrical connections and metallic materials. Winter maintenance
helps to
protect your investment.

Putting the boat away properly requires time and attention to
details. If
you're not the handy type, take the rig to a reputable marina. If you
prefer
to winterize your boat yourself, purchase the products and follow the
directions
on each container.

If you do nothing else, winterize the motor before storing it. Damage
can be
caused by freezing water or corrosion and rust on working parts. The
lower unit
is most susceptible. Fluid in the unit should be drained completely
and replaced
with fresh fluid. To change the fluid, remove the bottom and top
screws on the
lower unit and drain out the old oil. If you see water, or the oil is
milky, you
may have bad seals, the first clue of lower unit damage. Insert the
new tube of
gearcase lube into the bottom hole and force the oil in until it runs
out the
top hole. Put the top screw in, which will form an "air" lock allowing time
to replace
the bottom screw.

Fogging oil should be sprayed into the carburetor to reduce
condensation and
prevent rust from building up in internal parts of the engine. Fog
carburetor
while the engine runs for 20-30 seconds or until it begins to smoke.
Once the
engine is fogged, detach the fuel line and run the engine until all
of the gas
is burned. Lower the motor so all of the water drains from it, then
turn it over
a few times to blow out what water remains in the cooling system.

If your gas tanks are empty, fill them half way. Then, add fuel
conditioner
which will prevent fuel oxidation, gum and varnish deposits. Remember
to leave
room for new fuel in the spring. As fuel sits, it suffers a drop in
octane which
may cause engine damage. Before your first outing in the spring, fill
up your
tanks so that the good new gas will mix with the conditioned fuel.

Winter is a good time to replace spark plugs and other motor
accessories that
may be worn. Inspect the fuel line hose for leaks and clean the fuel
filter.
Don't forget the propeller. Remove the prop and coat the shaft with
grease. If
your prop is damaged, send it out for repairs. You won't be needing
it for a
while.

Spray the entire engine with a light silicone lubricant to avert
airborne
corrosives and extend the life of rubber and plastic parts. Lubricate
the
steering rams that go through the tilt tube of the motor. Use a light
oil or the
fogging oil that you used in the motor.

Store the boat with the bow up and the drain plugs out. This
especially
important if the boat is stored outside. Open storage compartments to
ventilate
them and unhook electrical connections from the batteries. Make sure
to unplug
your trolling motor from the panel. Coat the plug with anti-corrosion
grease or
oil. Remove the prop and clear away any dried weeds or fishing line
that may
prevent proper operation. Wash and wax the boat, cover it, and allow
for good
ventilation to prevent mildewing.

The most important thing to do to the trailer is to re-pack the
bearings. If a
bad seal has permitted water to get in, they'll surely rust while
sitting idle
for the winter. When you pull the bearings, inspect the races for
wear and
pitting in the bearings themselves. If you see any wear, replace them
immediately. Make sure your tires are properly inflated and you may
want to jack
up the axle to take the weight off of the tires while the boat sits.
A coat of
grease on the ball coupler and winch will ensure they work smoothly
next spring.
Inspect tail lights are working. Pop out the bulbs and coat the
contacts with a
fine layer of grease.

Remove electronics and store in a warm, dry place. Battery terminals
should be
cleaned to remove corrosion and coated with a light coat of grease.
Bring
batteries to a full charge and check fluid level if necessary. Check
the
batteries again before use in the spring.

Follow these guidelines and you shouldn't have to worry about
equipment
failures when spring fishing fever strikes and your equipment will
last much
longer.

[obert1]

Excellent information, thank you.